From necessity to ingenuity. In the Middle Ages, the lack of conservation techniques (i.e. cold chain) fostered the creativity of both butchers (the first Genoese abattoir was established in Soziglia in 1152) and housewives. Thus, offal and organs became the protagonists of several dishes and fillings (from ravioli to cima alla Genovese). Tripes are still a local hit (often eaten on December 26th), prepared throughout the region in a myriad ways, from accommodate (potatoes, broad beans and tomatoes) to “alla sbira” (potatoes, stock and sea biscuits). Tripes’ stock was served in ancient tripperie (the forerunners of fast food joints), where the Genoese sat around huge marble tables. Wine matching: go for DOC Colli di Luni rosso to accompany trippe accomodate (tripes stewed with tomato sauce).