Genoese ravioli have a story of their own. Their filling differs from the meatier versions found elsewhere in Italy and includes veal and offal, while the sfoglia (pasta sheet) features few eggs. “Tocco” is the piece of meat used for the sauce, which gently simmers for more than 3 hours. Philological recipes call for dry mushrooms, and do not forget about the wine (white for veal, red for beef). The stuffing should contain at least 30% vegetables (what a difference from Piedmont), and should rest for at least half a day. Gastronome writer Ratto used it to fill funghi rossi, baked with tocco and Parmigiano. Massimino (SV), probably the tiniest Comune in Liguria, lays claim as the mother country of ravioli di magro thanks to the castellane (vegetable ravioli) tradition. Genial violinist Niccolò Paganini wrote an autograph recipe for ravioli in 1840. Wine matching: red, DOC Riviera ligure di ponente Rossese.