Tuesday, 21 September 2010


Anchovies, slim, silver and tasty.
In Liguria there is a cult for this (once) ubiquitous fish.
Owing to their abundance and versatility, in ancient times anchovies were called the “pane del mare” (sea bread).
Nowadays, they still reach the shores of the Mediterranean sea via Gibraltar with a view to reproduction. They are caught (enjoy the sight of night fishing at the light of the lampara) from March to September.
The last days of June are the period of the best yield, in fact Monterosso (SP) “celebrates” anchovies on Saint John’s day.
Anchovies are the protagonists of a myriad recipes: fried, salted, marinated, baked, grilled they provide plenty of reasons for rewarding gourmand experiences. Wine matches: search through Ligurian DOCs and opt for a crisp white (Vermentino is a good choice), but go for easygoing red (Ciliegiolo or Rossese di Albenga) when preparations include tomato sauce (e.g. bagnun di acciughe).

Buon appetito e a presto!
Luisa Puppo

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