Friday, 24 September 2010

GOURMET WORDS OF THE ITALIAN RIVIERA: CAPPON MAGRO

Cappon magro represents the highlight of the Ligurian cuisine.
According to tradition, this lavish mosaic of fish and vegetables was to be eaten during the Quaresima (Lent) period -"magro" stands for lean and meat-free.
The Genoese definetely had a knack for gourmet creativity. Food or architecture?, this is the question when it comes to admiring this elegant (and complex) composition where "sea meets land" on a basis of sea biscuits (soaked with vinegar and white wine): fish, crustaceans, sea food, vegetables, hard eggs make up a vivid kaleidoscope, enrichened by the final touch of salsa verde (parsley-based sauce).
Cappon magro making call for the use of firm-fleshed fish, an eye for symmetry and composition and - above all -time and patience (vegetables are to be boiled separately).
Wine pairing is a bit tricky, given the presence of vinegar and lemon juice: opt for the crispness of white DOC Golfo del Tigullio Vermentino.

A presto e buon appetito!
Luisa Puppo
Ligucibario

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